bearing kit

Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Repair with Video – Kit W10435302

If you are on this page you probably either suspect or know that the bearings are going out on your Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, or Kenmore Oasis.  To help you find the answer to questions that you may have about bearing repair to the model washers above either follow the table contents below, read the whole post in its entirety, or check out my FAQ on Whirlpool bearing repair here.  If you need to know the part number or where to purchase the bearing kit from click here.

This website exists because of support from readers like you.  If you purchase any Whirlpool Cabrio washer parts through the links on my website, I will send you a free Whirlpool Cabrio repair manual.  Find out more about it here.

How to tell if your bearings need to be replaced

You may be at the point where you are trying to figure out if your bearings even need to be replaced.  Well, here’s a little guide that may help you.  The first, and usually most notable sign that the bearings need to be replaced is the loud roaring noise when the washer is in spin cycle. The second sign is rusty or greasy looking splatters that you see either on the floor or on the inside walls of the cabinet.

 Here are some pictures of some Cabrio repairs that I have done:

Rusty looking splatters on the ground from a bad bearing.

Rusty water stains seeping through holes on rotor

This washer is barely showing signs of a bad bearing. In the picture below I was in the process of taking the rotor off.

Buy bearing kit W10435302 with 365 day return policy

The bearings go out on these machines due to water leaking passed the seal. The bearings begin to get rusty causing the loud noise. As more water seeps through the bearing and shaft area, rusty water will begin to be spun out splatter the ground and the underneath washer.

How to replace the bearings

I created the following two videos for you do it yourselfers.  Until recently to replace the bearing on the Cabrio, Bravo, and Oasis you had to replace the entire outer tub.  Whirlpool has now made available a bearing kit and a bearing press tool so that the bearing can be replaced at a fraction of the cost.  Check out the videos below to learn how to replace the bearings.

 

 

Parts needed

If you purchase through either of the parts above from my website, I’ll send you a free Whirlpool Cabrio service manual.

Whirlpool-Cabrio-Service-Manual

Model numbers this part should be compatible with: (Probably more models)

If your washer is exactly like either one of these two diagrams, Bearing Repair Kit W10435302 should work for your washer.

 

MWTW7800XW0, MTW6300TQ0, MTW6300TQ1, MTW6400TQ0, MTW6500TQ0, MTW6600TB0, MTW6600TB1, MTW6600TQ0,MTW6600TQ1, MTW6700TQ0, MTW6700TQ1, MVWB300WQ0, MVWB300WQ1, MVWB400VQ0, MVWB450WQ0, MVWB450WQ1, MVWB700VQ0, MVWB750WB0, MVWB750WB1, MVWB750WL0, MVWB750WL1, MVWB750WQ0, MVWB750WQ1, MVWB750WR0, MVWB750WR1, WTW6200SW0, WTW6200SW1, WTW6200SW2, WTW6200SW3, WTW6200VW0, WTW6200VW1, WTW6300SB0, WTW6300SB1, WTW6300SB2, WTW6300SG0, WTW6300SG1, WTW6300SG2, WTW6300SW0, WTW6300SW1, WTW6300SW2, WTW6300WW0, WTW6340WW0, WTW6400SW0, WTW6400SW1, WTW6400SW2, WTW6400SW3, WTW6500WW1, WTW6600SB0, WTW6600SB1, WTW6600SB2, WTW6600SB3, WTW6600SG0, WTW6600SG1, WTW6600SG2, WTW6600SG3, WTW6600SW0, WTW6600SW1, WTW6600SW2, WTW6600SW3, WTW6700TU1, WTW6700TU2, WTW6700TW0, WTW6700TW1, WTW6700TW2, WTW6800WB1, WTW6800WE1, WTW6800WL1, WTW6800WU1, WTW6800WW1, WTW7300XW0, WTW7300XW1, WTW7300XW2, WTW7320YW0, WTW7340XW0, WTW7340XW1, WTW7340XW2, WTW7600XW0, WTW7600XW1, WTW7600XW2, WTW7800XB0, WTW7800XB1, WTW7800XB2, WTW7800XB3, WTW7800XB4, WTW7800XL0, WTW7800XL1, WTW7800XL2, WTW7800XL3, WTW7800XL4, WTW7800XW0, WTW7800XW1, WTW7800XW2, WTW7800XW3, WTW7800XW4

FAQs

Q.  Do I need to the bearing press tool to replace the bearings?

A.  If you haven’t replaced a bearing before on a machine, I would recommend using it.  It helps you to set the bearing correctly in the outer tub.  It will also save you a lot of time.

Q. What is the sloshing sound I here inside the inner basket?  It sounds like water is stuck inside.  Is this normal?

A. Yes, the water sound is coming from inside the balance ring and is perfectly normal.

Q.  You made it look so easy to remove the basket.  My basket is stuck on the shaft, and I can’t remove it, how can I get mine out?

A.  If you are having trouble removing the basket, one thing you can do is remove the whole outer tub and basket from the washer.  Have gravity work on your side, by turning it upside down and hammer the shaft out.   To do this, first remove wash plate/ agitator by removing the 7/16″ bolt, you may have to slip something underneath it in order to pop it similar to removing an agitiator out of a GE washer.  Once you have the wash plate/agitator removed, you can remove the hub by unscrewing the (6) screws on the hub that attaches to the basket.  After this is done, remove all the parts from the outer tub such as the pumps, motor, pressure tube, wiring harness etc. and then remove the tub.  Turn it upside down and carefully beat the shaft out.  You may need to replace the hub if it gets damaged during this process.  Here’s a video that shows you the old way to replace the bearings.  It will also show you how to remove the whole outer tub.

Q.  I replaced my bearings and now I’m getting an SD error or a UL error.  How do I fix this?

A.  I have found that most people get this error because their hub is sticking.  Those that have trouble removing their basket because it was stuck on the shaft usually experience this problem.  If you are getting the UL error it is either the hub causing the problem or suspension rods need attention.

Q.  I think my bearings are bad, but I’m not sure the bearing kit will work for my washing machine.  How can I tell if the bearing will work on my machine?

A.  Take a look at the diagram above, now take a look under your washer, if it looks like the washer in either of the diagrams, the bearing kit works with your washing machine.  The bearing kit doesn’t show up in the diagram since the bearing kit was an “after thought” by Whirlpool.

45 thoughts on “Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Repair with Video – Kit W10435302

  1. Pingback: Washing Machine Bearing Replacement | Washer Dryer Repair Help

  2. felipe dominguez ortiz

    nesecito pieza de lavadora donde la puedo conseguir w10435302 gracias avisenme porfavor si ustedes la tienen

    Reply
  3. Bruce Chee-A-Tow

    Hi,
    I cannot lift the inner tub out. I have already removed the basket drive hub and the tub ring.
    Should the inner tub be able to pull out?

    Bruce

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      Hello Bruce,

      Here’s a link to the diagram that can help us identify the parts:

      http://washerdryerrepairhelp.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cabrio-diagram.gif

      So if I’m understanding you correctly, you have the tub ring off, you removed the 7/16 bolt from the agitator (#3 in the diagram), and you removed the plastic hub (#8 in the diagram) from the basket (#10 on the diagram) and now it is stuck?

      I would screw the hub back onto the basket. Shove the basket down, pull it up, shove the basket down, pull it up. Do this until you pull the basket out. You may need to get someone to help you hold the outer tub in place as you pull up on the basket.

      Hope that helps.

      Jon

      Check us out on Facebook:

      http://www.facebook.com/pages/Washer-Dryer-Repair-Help/209833982476278

      Reply
      1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

        I was also going to say if the above solution doesn’t work, unscrew the hub, remove the rotor, the motor, and the nut that holds the shaft in place and then beat the shaft out with a hammer. You can then remove the basket and then remove it from the basket.

        Reply
        1. Chris

          I cannot lift the inner tub out so I followed your recommend above to remove the motor, and the nut that holds the shaft in place and then beat the shaft out with a hammer. I am beating like crazy and it won’t move???

          Reply
          1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

            Assuming that you have removed the agitator, you may have to remove the entire outer tub with the basket, turn it upside down and continue to give the shaft a beat down.

  4. Cynthy

    Hi , my Whirlpool washing machine recently broke and the model number is GHW9400p0 i was woundering if you guys have that model bearings? Thank You!

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      I would suspect one of the pumps first for water leaks. Remove the back panel from your washer. Turn your washer on and let it go through the cycles and watch for leaks. Carefully, feel around the hoses and pump particularly during the drain. You can usually feel or see where the water is dripping from.

      If you can’t find any dripping towards the back and you see rusty splatters under your washer, then I would suspect the bearing. But bad bearings are usually accompanied with a loud roaring sound.

      Worse case scenario is the outer tub has a hole in it and needs to be replaced.

      Reply
      1. Kim Goodman

        My washer has a leak also. I have took back off and watched during cycle. Mine leaks when it spins from the bottom. It is clean water coming out no rust or grease. It splatters water all on the underside. I have been using it just putting a towel down to soak water up, but I need to fix it before it gets worse. Could this still be the bearings?

        Reply
        1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

          The seal is probably shot, either that, or you have a hole in the bottom of your tub. If you have a Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, or Kenmore Oasis (the older non-belt driven model) sometimes the seal goes out, no rust, or grease, but still the seal and the bearings will need to be changed out. First check for a hole. If you determine it’s the seal, here’s the info you will need:

          http://washerdryerrepairhelp.com/whirlpool-cabrio-maytag-bravo-and-kenmore-oasis-bearing-repair/

          Reply
  5. ed

    can a bad bearing give a ul code.. i already changed the suspension rods and i am still getting ul with about 9 minutes left in wash.

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      You probably already figured this out, but the UL error code stands for unbalanced load. Probably about 95% of the time the UL error code can be fixed by replacing the suspension rods, but there are a couple other things that can be causing the error.

      There could be something stuck between the basket and outer tub, the basket could be getting stuck on the shaft itself due to corrosion and not sitting correctly (The basket should be able to slide up and down the shaft. During the wash cycle it floats up as the water fills the tub. As the water empties out for spin cycle it slides back down. This is where a bearing kit may come in handy since it comes with a new shaft.), the little plastic spring loaded hub that screws into your basket could also be causing this, or lastly your control board could also be the culprit.

      If you wanted to fix it, I would probably start with removing the basket to see if anything is stuck under the tub and to get a look at the shaft and the hub. If everything seems okay, move to the control board. If you end up purchasing parts, you could get them from either Appliance Parts Pros or Repair Clinic so you can return them within 365 days if they don’t fix your problem. This specific model washer can be quite problematic.

      Reply
  6. vlad

    Our Cabrio is making squicky loud nose after water is taken and cycle starts. Everything works fine just a loud noise. Any ideas why this may be happening?

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      What’s your model number? What to look for really depends on which Cabrio you have. The newer Cabrios have a vertical modular transmission and are belt driven. If you have this newer type style, I would look underneath to see if your belt may possibly be rubbing. If it’s the older style, look for rusty/grease dribble on the rotor, even the slightest is a sign of a bad bearing, but normally the loud noise is most noticeable during spin cycle.

      Is this noise in-sync with the motor?

      Reply
  7. vlad

    The washer is only 1.6 years yang model # WTW5550X. So I will dismantle from underneath to check the belt then.

    Reply
  8. vladimirm

    I’ve taken guard out underneath, looks like belt was rubbing on it cause there is black dust everywhere. I also noticed that the sheave on a drum side is wobbly, is it the way is suppose to be or something is going on there?

    Reply
  9. Bruce

    I have a WTW6400SW0 Cabrio washer that I need to remove the wash plate. I have removed the bolt but the plate won’t come off. I have tried putting a rope under it and pulling, pulling up on the tub using WD40 to lubricate it but nothing is working. Any other suggestions on how to get it off without damaging it?

    Reply
  10. Rob

    Hi, I have a WTW6600SW2, and I’ve removed the large nut holding the shaft on, I removed the agitator and hub (6 screws). I’m beating the shaft from the bottom and it reaches a limit and doesn’t move. It actually springs back a little bit. The bearing and spacer came down from the bottom ok. Any idea why the shaft wont come hammer through?
    Thanks for your help!

    Reply
  11. Robin

    Hi, I have a whirlpool elite oasis washer, model # 110.28032701. A few weeks ago the washer would start to fill up, then when it was time for it to start to agitate or spin, it would stop and give code f 51. The basket and agitator would not move at all. So, we took the agitator off and the inner basket, we had to pry both out, they seems like they were glued in. When we put them back in, my son had a hard time tightening it from inside, so he turned it over. When he tightened it from under, it seemed to loosen up were the bearings are in the outer tub. Then the tub and agitator started to spin freely.. While he was under, he checked the rotor position sensor, it seemed ok. We put everything back together and tested it. It filled up and ran the entire cycle, but, it sounded like a jet when it was in spin. Thought the dang washer was going to take off, lol. My question is, if the bearings were froze up on the outer tub, would it cause the tub and agitator to not move and throw a code f-51, and now cause it to sound like a jet when it is in spin cycle? And, can I get new bearings for it or do I have to get the entire outside tub? Thanks

    Reply
  12. Clint

    Thanks so much. Took about 4 hours to do. I didn’t buy the press tool. Instead I bought two pieces of 4″ long round metal stock from the pipe section of the hardware store. Two different diameters to match the diameters of the outside metal ring on the bearings so I could tap them in with the pipe and rubber mallet. Worked great. Thanks so much for the videos.

    Reply
  13. John Lucke

    I have a WTW7600XW0 Cabrio Whirpool. My original problem was that the drain pump would run but water would not empty and I would get a LD code. (Long Drain). I pulled the inner basket to check for something blocking the water flow into the pump. I had to beat the inner shaft with a hammer to get the inner basket removed. The inner shaft was completely rusted preventing the inner basket from sliding off the shaft. After I removed the inner basket I noticed it has water inside. This does not seam normal and a problem. I think I might need to replace the shaft and maybe the pump but I am not sure how to get the water out of the inner basket.

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      Hello John,

      The sloshing sound of water in the basket is perfectly normal. It helps keep the basket balanced during spin/agitation cycle. The basket floats up the shaft during agitation and before it will kick into spin cycle, the basket must slide all the way down the shaft. One cause of the LD error is the basket can’t slide all the down the shaft usually caused by rust. Sometimes, the hub can also be sticking. I’d recommend replacing the shaft along with the bearings and for good measure maybe even the hub. You can get both parts here:

      bearing kit http://washerdryerrepairhelp.com/Cabrio-Bearing-Kit
      hub http://washerdryerrepairhelp.com/Hub
      You can also use the bearing press tool to make the job easier: http://washerdryerrepairhelp.com/bearing-press-tool

      Thanks,

      Jon

      Reply
  14. Michael Watercott

    I appear to be having this exact issue and I’m trying to determine the best way to fix it. 2 questions: If the bearings are made to go bad by a leak, does the bearing replacement actually solve the problem, or will the new bearings go bad again if the leak persists? And, if the bearing press tool is really needed, the price of it along with the kit is essentially the same as an entire outer tub. Is there any reason to replace just the bearings in that case, or would one be better off replacing the entire tub (potentially better avoiding whatever is causing the leak) and saving yourself the work of dealing with the bearings?

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      When I first wrote this post the cost of the complete tub was significantly more expensive than what it is now. You don’t have to use the press tool. If you have set bearings before, you can probably replace these bearings without any problem not using the tool. A couple of up-sides of doing the bearings instead of buying the a complete tub are:

      1. You can sell the tool on ebay when you are done.

      2. The cost of shipping is higher on the tub (If you buy online, but you can always get the tub locally too).

      Whether you replace the bearings or replace the tub it takes about the same amount of time if you are a first timer.

      The bearings go bad when the seal gives out. The detergent causes the seal to eventually go bad. If a person consistently over uses detergent, the seal will go bad faster. When you replace the bearings, a new seal comes with the bearing kit. Whether you go with the a new tub or you replace the bearings, you get the same end result except the parts in the new tub are factory set (less risk of human error). In the end it’s up to you, either way DIY is much cheaper. :)

      Reply
  15. Jeff N

    I have my bears and shaft removed. The upper highest bearing and seal failed and there are no bearings remaining inside. So, on the tub that is removed where the shaft goes through, the metal races are scared from bearings being chewed up. Are these races inside the removed tub important to be perfectly smooth or does the shaft ride in this area where the shaft isn’t milled to a shiney finish? If these need to be smooth, are these removable or are they part of the complete tub.
    Thanks
    Jeff

    Reply
    1. washerdryerrepairhelp Post author

      My concern with the metal center of the tub being scared would be that the new bearings could get messed up when you put them in place. If you are confident you can get the new bearings in without destroying them, you can try to replace them. But if you aren’t sure, I would consider replacing the whole outer tub as the metal center in the tub can’t be removed.

      Thanks!

      Reply
  16. jolynn

    It is $3 more expensive to buy the complete tub. I would rather pay the extra $3 if the repair process is easier. What are your thoughts? And is there a video on this repair (complete tub)?

    Reply
  17. Caleb LaRue

    Your video is amazing, very clear. I ordered the bearing kit and tool elsewhere (sorry, now regret), and in the overall removal process find that the upper bearing is blown apart and the outer casing of the bearing is bonded permanently to the outer tub. I have tried driving a screwdriver down next to it, nothing doing . . . will I need to replace the outer tub? Do you sell them, or where should I look?

    (I’ll try to return the parts and tool if I can)

    Thank you so much.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>