Whirlpool Cabrio UL Error Fix

Does your Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore Oasis, or Maytag Bravo bang in spin cycle, or does it stop spinning all together and flash UL?  This is usually caused by the original suspension rods that came with your machine.  These rods tend to become faulty.  There is an easy/inexpensive fix for that.  Whirlpool made an improved suspension rod kit W10189077.  Here’s a video that will show you how to replace the suspension rods: Contents1 Where to buy Part W101890772 Find Your Part Number 365 Day Warranty3 Buy suspension rods with 365 day warranty Where to buy Part W10189077 Repair Clinic – 365

Whirlpool Cabrio Error Codes

How this error code thing works Below is a list of error codes for the Whirlpool Cabrio along with with explanations and recommended procedures. Over time I will interject some commentaries to help you better pinpoint the possible cause(s) to your problem. I have so far written more in depth posts on the following Whirlpool Cabrio error codes:  F1 errorcode, Ul error code. This website exists because of support from readers like you.  If you purchase any Whirlpool Cabrio washer parts through my sponsors (Repair Clinic offers a 365 day returns on all parts) via links on my website, as a

Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Repair with Video – Kit W10435302

If you are on this page you probably either suspect or know that the bearings are going out on your Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, or Kenmore Oasis.  To help you find the answer to questions that you may have about bearing repair to the model washers above either follow the table contents below, read the whole post in its entirety, or check out my FAQ on Whirlpool bearing repair here.  If you need to know the part number or where to purchase the bearing kit from click here. This website exists because of support from readers like you.  If you

Whirlpool Cabrio Gas Dryer WGD6200SW1 No Heat Question

I had someone email me that was having problems fixing their Whirlpool Cabrio dryer model number WGD6200SW1.  I tried emailing them several times, but the emails keep bouncing back.  Hopefully they see this post, otherwise maybe it will help someone else out.  Here’s their question:

We have replaced the coils, flame sensor, ignitor and thermistor runs fine but will not heat up could it be the burner or thermal cutoff ?

Here’s my answer:


Before replacing any more parts, I would unhook the dryer vent that leads outside. Turn the dryer on and see if you get heat at the back of the dryer. If you do have heat, your venting is clogged somewhere or something is restricting air flow. (Don’t run your dryer for a long period of time with your vent unhooked. You want the carbon dioxide to go outside your house and not inside.) 🙂

If you don’t get any heat with the vent unhooked, test the thermal cutoff with a multimeter. You will want it set on the lowest setting for ohms. Remove one of the wires on the thermal cutoff and place one of each leads on the two terminals. If you get a reading of 1, your thermal cutoff is bad and needs to be replaced. I would get the thermal cut off kit. It is recommended to replace the thermal cut off and high limit thermostat at the same time.

I would also clean out the chute while you are at it and check your venting for any clogs. These kinds of clogs can cause your dryer to over heat causing the thermal cutoff to trip. It can’t be reset so, it has to be replaced It could also be that your high limit thermostat failed causing your thermal cut off to die.

Here’s a link to the thermal cut off kit:


Let me know how things go.


About The Author