Whirlpool Cabrio UL Error Fix

Does your Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore Oasis, or Maytag Bravo bang in spin cycle, or does it stop spinning all together and flash UL?  This is usually caused by the original suspension rods that came with your machine.  These rods tend to become faulty.  There is an easy/inexpensive fix for that.  Whirlpool made an improved suspension rod kit W10189077.  Here’s a video that will show you how to replace the suspension rods: Contents1 Where to buy Part W101890772 Find Your Part Number 365 Day Warranty3 Buy suspension rods with 365 day warranty Where to buy Part W10189077 Repair Clinic – 365

Whirlpool Cabrio Error Codes

How this error code thing works Below is a list of error codes for the Whirlpool Cabrio along with with explanations and recommended procedures. Over time I will interject some commentaries to help you better pinpoint the possible cause(s) to your problem. I have so far written more in depth posts on the following Whirlpool Cabrio error codes:  F1 errorcode, Ul error code. This website exists because of support from readers like you.  If you purchase any Whirlpool Cabrio washer parts through my sponsors (Repair Clinic offers a 365 day returns on all parts) via links on my website, as a

Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Repair with Video – Kit W10435302

If you are on this page you probably either suspect or know that the bearings are going out on your Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravo, or Kenmore Oasis.  To help you find the answer to questions that you may have about bearing repair to the model washers above either follow the table contents below, read the whole post in its entirety, or check out my FAQ on Whirlpool bearing repair here.  If you need to know the part number or where to purchase the bearing kit from click here. This website exists because of support from readers like you.  If you

Dead Electric Whirlpool Dryer Service Call

Today I fixed an electric Whirlpool dryer.  The home owner’s complaint was that the dryer was dead.   It took about an hour to repair.  (I could have been out much sooner, but I got talking.)  The pictures below weren’t from this specific repair.  They are just for reference.

I first checked for power at the terminal by unplugging the dryer then removing the terminal block cover, plugging the dryer back in, and then using my volt meter to test for the  voltage reading between the black (hot) wired and the white (neutral) wire.  I got 120 volt reading.  Next I tested voltage between the white (neutral) wire and the red (hot) wire.  I got 120 volts thee also so I knew that the cord and the outlet was good.  If the power cord isn’t color coded, then just remember the outside terminals are hot and the inside is neutral.

Next, I removed the back panel to test the thermal fuse.  Many times a dead electric dryer is caused by a tripped thermal fuse.  The thermal fuse can’t be reset so it has to be replaced.  By removing one of the terminals on the thermal fuse and testing resistance, I got 1 which means that the fuse is bad. I replaced the thermal fuse.

When these fuses blow, it is caused by an over heating dryer, which normally over heat due to plugged venting.  I removed the chute and it was filthy.  I then thoroughly vacuumed out the chute, the back of the dryer, and the inside of the dryer.  After cleaning out the dryer, I put it back together and the dryer is as good as new.

 

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